‘A small Africa in Colombia’: the palenqueras of Cartagena

In the south American port city, an expressive Black ancestral community live full, self-fashioned lives protected by culture and identity

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Hello and welcome to The Long Wave. This week, it comes to you from Cartagena, Colombia, where I was attending a literary festival but, to be honest, have been mostly eating empanadas. It was my first time in Latin America, and I was not quite ready for a strange sort of culture shock, one that was as much about alienation as it was about recognition. I walked around the city in circles, trying to pound my way into absorbing a place of complex, layered histories.

But it was Cartagena’s racial legacy that, at points, I found overwhelming. It sounds naive, but there is something about travelling halfway across the world to meet others of African descent that brings home the scale of the impact of centuries of enslavement. And it was in the “palenqueras” of Cartagena that I felt that history, in all its contradictions and legacies, resided.